Felt can be built in many ways using wool fibres as the base.
However it is important to make sure that you are using the
correct quality of wool fibres. Too coarse a fibre slows felting
as fibre below 56's Bradford count (learn
more about fibres) will not felt easily. Lustrous,
fine fibres felt quickly and reduce the time for working the
design into shape. The felted bag, made by Linda Chapman and
pictured here, is made from Fine
White Wool tops (60's, 12cm staple) and Dyed
Merino Wool tops (Bradford
count 64).
Heavily dyed wool fibres do not felt easily and black can
be a particular problem in feltmaking unless special dyes
are used.
With all these points in mind, a range of white and coloured
Merino Wool tops are available
for feltmakers and spinners. A count of around 64 provides
a fibre which will felt readily, but can also be spun into
yarn for garments which do not turn into felt at the first
wash! The fine black wool has been specially and carefully
dyed for Fibrecrafts to retain a good felting performance.
Felt is created by agitating fibres until they mat together
to form a non-woven fabric. The fibres can be laid flat on
a surface or molded around a former such as a hatshaper, cardboard
or even a ball.
The
piece of felt here, made by Alison Bate, was created by first
weaving Light and Dark Herdwick and Black Welsh Mountain tops
and placing between two pieces of mesh netting to hold it
in place before felting.
On a bad day use the felt making process to relieve the
tensions, it usually makes a very good felt. Making the felt
is simple, it requires only a little time and effort to achieve
a pleasing result. Numerous techniques are used to create
the felt fabric and generally the feltmaker will experiment
to find the technique which most suits them.
Materials required for feltmaking:
- Plastic sheet - to protect the work surface
- Reed/Bamboo mat or bubble wrap - to roll the felt in
and help the agitation process
- Wooden dowel - to roll the felt & mat around
- Hot soapy water - solution made with soap or washing
up liquid
- Wool tops - about 100gm will make quite a thick 30cm
x 30cm square. It will be easier to decide how much fibre
is needed for projects as you do more and more. The overall
amount will be determined by the thickness of the felt and
density to which it is felted. Trial, error and note taking
are recommended.
- Netting - to hold any patterns in shape during the initial
agitation process.
(click
here to see feltmakers tools available from Fibrecrafts)
The process of felting the fibres:
- Take a small handful of
dyed wool tops, open the fibres out and place
in a thin, even layer onto the reed/bamboo mat. This is
called the 'roving'.
- Place another handful of fibres at 90° to the first
layer. Add another 2 or 3 layers (at 90° to each other)
until there are about 3 to 4 layers in total - depending
on the thickness of felt required.
- Patterns can be set on to the fibre using other colours
of wool tops, silk fibres, 'silk paper' shapes, or pre-felted
shapes.
- Place the netting over the top of the fibres. Pour the
hot soapy water into the centre of the fibres and gently
rub in a circular motion working out towards the edges of
the fibres. The fibres settle down quickly and form a mat.
- Continue rubbing vigorously for about 5 minutes, lifting
the net occasionally to check progress and that it is not
sticking to the fibres, and add more hot soapy water as
required.
- Remove any excess water with a towel/cloth and lift off
the netting. Roll the felt and the reed/bamboo mat around
the piece of dowel to make a 'package'.
- Roll the 'package' back and forth on the work surface
- the felt will shrink (up to 50%) in the direction you
are rolling. Unroll the mat and rotate the felt 90°.
Roll up the 'package' again and continue rolling. Repeat
the rotation and rolling process twice more so that the
felt is an even thickness and has shrunk in both directions.
Alternatively, use a felting board. As you rub the wool
on the board the ribbed surface accelerates the felting
process and the curved grooves allow the soapy water to
drain away.
- The felt is ready once it has reached the required stiffness
and shape.
- Remove the felt from the mat, rinse out the soap under
cold running water and leave to dry.
To make a wall hanging or to add further elements such as
silk fibres or cut-out shapes, the fibres should only be loosely
felted to create a pre-felt and therefore a base for the inclusions.
The prefelt
fabric can be bought ready made and used as a 'canvas'
by the feltmaker.
Making
Felt Balls (see also washing
machine method):
- Take approximately 50gm of wool fibre. Tease the wool
open and fluff it up to a consistent mix, and shape it into
a ball, with the coloured wools making the surface pattern.
Alternatively the surface pattern can be added later, as
the balls begin to harden.
- Mix two teaspoons of washing-up liquid in a washing up
bowl half full of hand hot water. Wet the outside of the
ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball and
pat, squeeze and roll it in the hands. Place further pieces
of coloured wool on the surface of the ball to make the
final pattern.
- Again wet the outside of the ball, and continue to pat
and squeeze to keep the shape. Make sure the ball is thoroughly
wetted and after ten to twenty minutes the felt ball is
ready. Put the ball in a warm place to dry out.
An alternative method of making felt balls can be seen here
Nuño or Laminated Felt
Fine wool fibres such as Merino, combined with fine openly
woven fabrics such as Gauze Chiffon, give the best effect.
The fibres are bonded onto the fabric during the felting process.
As they shrink, they adhere to the surface of the material
which becomes distorted in the direction the fibres are laid,
creating a ruched effect.
Combining different fibres such as Tussah silk and threads
with wool tops, and using other fabrics such as an open weave
silk
like Georgette or Chiffon, will produce a variety of effects
in feltmaking.
Lay the fibres across the open weave fabric and felt in the
same way as above.

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