Natural
dyes tend to fall into one of three types, mineral,
substantive or adjective.
Adjective Dyes
There are many adjective natural dyes which only give a worthwhile
colour and a good level of wash and light fastness if the
fibres are prepared with a mordant. There are a host of materials
which, used in the correct way will dye fibres and textiles.
Many of these are found in the wild, in the kitchen or can
be cultivated in the garden. To these can be added a further
range of imported materials grown
in hotter or damper climates. The great majority of dyes only
give a relatively permanent colour if the fibres are mordanted.
In general, to give a strong colour, use an equal weight
of plant material to the dry weight of the fibre, yarn or
fabric. However when dyeing with heart-woods, dye extracts
or cochineal, much smaller quantities, around one tenth of
the dry fibre weight, are needed for a strong colour.
Mordanted wool, silk, cotton or linen can be dyed with many
flowers, leaves, roots, fruit as well as heart woods and some
scale insects. The only 'impossible' colour is a good blue,
and with that a clear green, made from clear blue and clear
yellow. Both of these depend on indigo (learn
more...).
Natural dyeing has much in common with cooking. No two batches
turn out exactly the same, there are many very different recipes
each intended to create the same outcome, and each dyer considers
their recipe to be superior. We thoroughly recommend that
you record dyeing information and keep swatches of the results!
To create a colour, pre-soak the natural dyestuff (placed
in a muslin bag to avoid it getting mixed with the material),
then bring the mordanted fibre, fabric or yarn and the dyestuff
to the boil (except madder which should be kept below 50°C)
in the same dye bath. Hold at a simmer for one hour and allow
to cool slowly. Wash in cool water until it runs clear.
 Substantive
Dyes
The substantive natural dyes do not need a mordant to colour
the fibre and include the tannic acid from gall nuts, walnut
leaves, turmeric, as well as alizarin reds from annatto, cochineal
(pictured) and safflower, indigo and the purple of some molluscs.
The use of a mordant enhances and can modify these colours.
Mineral Dyes
Mineral dyes are produced by the metallic ions in the mordant
salts. This gives a yellow from chrome, brown from the iron
salts and blue from copper.
Safety
It is clear that there are sensible precautions to be taken
when handling dyes and chemicals, particularly as powders:
- Avoid inhaling dusts, they can produce an asthma type
reaction. People with known respiratory problems should
not handle synthetic dyes, and particularly the fibre reactive
dyes, in powder form. A dust mask should be worn when working
with the powders or exposed to an aerosol from spraying
dye solutions made up in water.
- Avoid splashing solutions into the eyes, swallowing the
materials or prolonged skin contact. A simple 'non-contact'
approach (most people use gloves to avoid dyeing themselves)
plus normal, good, hygiene is sufficient precautions for
the occasional user
- Store in clearly labeled containers well away from children,
pets and foodstuffs. Treat dye powders and solutions with
the same caution as domestic poisons (eg strong cleaners,
bleaches or medicines)
- Dispose of spent solutions containing residues of the
dyes responsibly. Dilute and pour onto waste land or into
the sewage system. They have no known effect on the environment
when used in the quantities recommended in the literature
Fibrecrafts offer a large range of dyeing
books to help you get started as well as a wide
choice of Natural
Dyestuff and Mordants
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