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Natural dyes tend to fall into one of three types,
mineral, substantive or adjective.
Adjective Dyes
There are many adjective natural dyes which only give a
worthwhile colour and a good level of wash and light fastness
if the fibres are prepared with a mordant. There are a host of
materials which, used in the correct way will dye fibres and
textiles. Many of these are found in the wild, in the kitchen
or can be cultivated in the garden. To these can be added a
further range of imported materials grown in hotter or damper
climates. The great majority of dyes only give a relatively
permanent colour if the fibres are mordanted.
In general, to give a strong colour, use an equal weight
of plant material to the dry weight of the fibre, yarn or
fabric. However when dyeing with heart-woods, dye extracts or
cochineal, much smaller quantities, around one tenth of the
dry fibre weight, are needed for a strong colour.
Mordanted wool, silk, cotton or linen can be dyed with
many flowers, leaves, roots, fruit as well as heart woods and
some scale insects. The only 'impossible' colour is a good
blue, and with that a clear green, made from clear blue and
clear yellow. Both of these depend on indigo (learn
more...).
Natural dyeing has much in common with cooking. No two
batches turn out exactly the same, there are many very
different recipes each intended to create the same outcome,
and each dyer considers their recipe to be superior. We
thoroughly recommend that you record dyeing information and
keep swatches of the results!
To create a colour, pre-soak the natural dyestuff (placed
in a muslin bag to avoid it getting mixed with the material),
then bring the mordanted fibre, fabric or yarn and the
dyestuff to the boil (except madder which should be kept below
50°C) in the same dye bath. Hold at a simmer for one hour and
allow to cool slowly. Wash in cool water until it runs clear.
Substantive Dyes
The substantive natural dyes do not need a mordant to
colour the fibre and include the tannic acid from gall nuts,
walnut leaves, turmeric, as well as alizarin reds from
annatto, cochineal (pictured) and safflower, indigo and the
purple of some molluscs. The use of a mordant enhances and can
modify these colours.
Mineral Dyes
Mineral dyes are produced by the metallic ions in the
mordant salts. This gives a yellow from chrome, brown from the
iron salts and blue from copper.
Safety
Sensible precautions should be
taken when handling dyes and chemicals, particularly as
powders:
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Avoid inhaling dusts, they can produce an asthma type
reaction. People with known respiratory problems should not
handle synthetic dyes, and particularly the fibre reactive
dyes, in powder form. A dust mask should be worn when
working with the powders or exposed to an aerosol from
spraying dye solutions made up in water.
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Avoid splashing solutions into the eyes, swallowing the
materials or prolonged skin contact. A simple 'non-contact'
approach (most people use gloves to avoid dyeing themselves)
plus normal, good, hygiene is sufficient precautions for the
occasional user
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Store in clearly labelled containers well away from
children, pets and foodstuffs. Treat dye powders and
solutions with the same caution as domestic poisons (e.g.
strong cleaners, bleaches or medicines)
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Dispose of spent solutions containing residues of the
dyes responsibly. Dilute and pour onto waste land or into
the sewage system. They have no known effect on the
environment when used in the quantities recommended in the
literature
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Safflower
Heather
Marigold
Cochineal |